Remember and Celebrate

This past weekend was a big one for the country of Israel: celebration of both Memorial Day (Yom Hazikaron) and Independence Day (Yom Ha'atzmaut). These two holidays are way different from the American versions for a number of reasons. First of all, Memorial Day (who’s official title is Israeli Fallen Soldiers and Victims of Terrorism Remembrance Day) is much much more observed and serious than in the US (where its really only marked by lots of sales, barbecues, American flags, and outdoor pools finally opening). Not only has nearly everyone in the country served in the army, but because of this and because of the small size of the country’s population, virtually every Israeli knows someone who has died or at least who has been directly affected by war or acts of terror. The day is extremely somber and respectful, many people wear white in solidarity, and there are ceremonies all over the country. The holiday starts the night before, with a siren at 8 PM that is heard throughout literally the entire country. Everyone stops what they’re doing for the moment of silence. Again, everyone in the entire country, standing together at the same time—it’s a really powerful moment. The same thing happens the following morning at 11 AM, but the siren lasts for two minutes. I saw a picture in the newspaper of a major highway where all the cars had stopped in the middle of the road and people got out to stand in observance of the moment of silence. I went to a ceremony in the community part of my family lives in on the eve of Yom Hazikaron where they shared stories of soldiers from that community who had fallen. Families of these soldiers spoke on behalf of “bereaved families” and a former soldier spoke on behalf of “comrades in arms”. They lit a memorial torch, laid ceremonial wreaths, and sang beautiful songs, making for a really personal, powerful ceremony.

The next morning I went to another ceremony with my cousin Rotem and Roni (who FINALLY arrived, about 3 weeks late) at the Air Force Memorial, which is on a mountain between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. This was the official Air Force Ceremony so the commander of the IAF, many foreign attaches, and tons of IAF officers were there. The format of the ceremony was similar to the previous evening, but much more ceremonial and official. There were cadets from the Israeli Air Academy who marched in and out and stood at attention the whole time, and even a fly-over after the two minute siren (they did the missing man formation which I’ve always been really moved by). The whole Yom Hazikaron experience was really cool to witness and I’m so glad I was able to be here during this really special time in Israel.

After the ceremony Rotem finally took me to her secret Chumus place in the Old City and let me write here officially, for posterity, that I have now found the most delicious chumus in Jerusalem. It took me a few months but the reigning champion Chumus Lina has been surpassed by this delicious establishment. So if you want quality chumus when you go to Jerusalem, talk to me.

Part of the magic of these two holidays in Israel is the scheduling. Memorial Day takes place and then as soon as the sun goes down and the next day begins, it’s Independence Day! So you flip a switch from somber, reflective remembrance to patriotic excitement and celebration. It’s an interesting concept, and one that makes quite a strong statement.

That evening, the eve of Yom Ha-atzmaut, Roni and I got the awesome opportunity to go to the official ceremony at Mount Herzl, held in the military ceremony where Theodor Herzl is buried, on the plaza surrounding his grave. This was the ceremony shown on TV, attended by lots of government officials, where the Speaker of the Knesset gave the keynote remarks—basically a really awesome place to be to welcome the arrival of Independence Day. I wont go into all the details of the ceremony, but included was the lighting of 12 torches, representing the twelve tribes of the people of Israel, and each of the lighters of the torches represented a different part of Israeli life: old, young, native, immigrants, holocaust survivors, intellectuals, doctors—lots of really awesome stories of really awesome people. Since it’s Israeli’s 63^rd birthday there was a procession of 63 soldiers each carrying a different banner who made formations with their marching. Some of the coolest were the symbols of the IDF and Magen David Adom (Israel’s Red Cross), the word “todah” (thank you), the number 63, and my personal favorite, an Israeli flag that was animated as waving. Each new formation brought exclamations of “ooh”s “aahh”s and “wow”s from Roni and myself. There was also a CRAZY song/dance show, complete with what I called an Israeli gospel choir, dance troupe of about 250 kids, fire, fireworks, a boys choir, and men’s choir, a singer who fell flat on her behind during her performance, and lots of other great stuff. It was a grand old time.

(Knesset Speaker Reuven Rivlin lighting main the torch)

(opening procession)

(Atzmaut Israel: Israel Independence)

(Dancing pillowcase kids)

(part of the Israeli gospel choir)

All in all, I’m thrilled I was able to be in Jerusalem for such a big weekend in the Israeli calendar, and even more thrilled I was able to be a part of the nation’s “official” celebration! Last year I was in DC for 4^th of July, and this year in Jerusalem for Yom Ha-atzmaut. Next year I have to be in Berlin for Tag der Deutschen Einheit!!! (probably not…..)